How to change the Tubular Heater in an LG washing machine
Breakage of the Tubular Heater, a heating element, is a fairly common problem in washing machines. Tap water often contains a large amount of mineral salts, as a result, when the water is constantly heated, the element is covered with scale, which significantly reduces its life. As a result, the machine stops heating the water.
If the Tubular Heater of your LG washing machine is out of order, we advise you to contact the LG Branded Service by leaving a request by phone 8-499-677-76-76 (for calls from Moscow and the Moscow region) or by phone 8-800-200-76.76 (for calls within Russia). LG Branded Service specialists will quickly and efficiently carry out repairs of any complexity. But if you feel like a jack of all trades and want to take care of the breakdown yourself, we have prepared for you step by step instructions on how to replace the Tubular Heater in an LG washing machine.
Replacing the Tubular Heater in an LG washing machine: step by step guide
You can change a faulty Tubular Heater in an LG washing machine without resorting to the services of a master. The vast majority of LG models are direct drive which means there is no drive belt to interfere with when replacing the Tubular Heater.
How to Remove Tubular Heater in LG Washing Machine
- Make sure your washing machine is unplugged before replacing the Tubular Heater. Shut off the water and disconnect the inlet and drain hoses.
- In LG washing machines, the heating element is located under the tub, making it easy to change the Tubular Heater.
- Remove the back panel of the washing machine (usually attached with screws or screws).
- You will see the outside of the Tubular Heater with outside contacts at the bottom of the tank wall.
- Remove the wires from the Tubular Heater. Before that, you can take a picture of their location on a smartphone, so that when installing the element in place, you will not be mistaken.
- Loosen the nut located in the center of the Tubular Heater so that it is seated at the end of the thread. Press it in along with the hairpin.
- The Tubular Heater is now available. This will be easier if you gently pry the part with a screwdriver or knife. Remember that the surface of the element, contacts and the seat are very vulnerable to mechanical damage, so you need to act slowly and carefully.
How to Install Tubular Heater in LG Washing Machine
- Before starting to replace the element, prepare the seat by removing scale and dirt.
- Lubricate the seat, seal and the element itself with any lubricant for technical parts.
- Place the new Tubular Heater gently into place.
- Tighten the nut and tighten with a wrench.
- Connect terminals and wires.
- Assemble the body of the machine, then run the machine without laundry at high temperature. You can check if the new Tubular Heater in your LG washing machine is working properly by touching the door glass after 15 minutes of washing: it must be warm.
For a new Tubular Heater to last long, you need to choose the right part. Read the washing machine data sheet carefully and determine the capacity of the item. For LG washing machines, the indicator is usually 1900-1950 watts, but for some models, the power may be 2 kW.
If for some reason you cannot see the data in the data sheet, then you can find out the information on the heating element itself: it can be marked on it. These values will help you not to make a mistake when buying and choose the part that fits your LG washing machine.
How to remove a collector motor
Thus, usually collector-type motors have to be repaired. The process of disassembling a washing machine, then removing the motor, repairing or replacing it with a new one is very similar to the equipment of various manufacturers, but there are also differences. It looks like this:
- Disconnect the device from the network and wait a few minutes until the equipment is completely de-energized.
- First, the owner of the device needs to disassemble the washing machine. To do this, you need to remove the back cover (Ariston, Zanussi, Electrolux) or the front panel (Bosch, Samsung, LG), depending on the manufacturer. In the first case, you will need to unscrew a few screws, in the second, remove the top cover and control panel.
- The collector motor is most often located at the bottom of the washing machine, under the tank. First of all, you need to remove the belt and disconnect the ground wire and power.
- Usually the motor is installed in four seats. It is firmly screwed to two of them. It is necessary to unscrew the fasteners, for this a key for 13 is used, but other options are possible, depending on the brand of the washing machine.
- Very often the engine sticks in the seats, so you need to pick it up with a screwdriver.
- Feeling that the motor is moving, you need to pull it towards you and remove.
To install a new engine, follow these steps in reverse order. In order not to confuse the wiring, you need to photograph it before disconnecting or making notes.
How to remove an inverter motor
An inverter motor installed on a washing machine is not intended for home repair, but if the user nevertheless decided to remove it himself, he would have to follow these steps:
- Unplug the washing machine.
- Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the rear cover or front panel.
- Take a photo or mark the wiring, then disconnect it by first removing the retaining screws.
- Remove the bolt holding the rotor. During the process, to avoid rotation, hold the rotor with your hand.
- Remove the rotor assembly, then the stator.
- Disconnect all wire connectors.
How to remove and replace the motor on an activator-type washing machine
In devices of the activator type (Malyutka washing machine, some compact top-loading washing machines), an activator is located on the motor shaft to create water movement.
To remove the engine in such devices, you need:
- Remove the plug from the housing, behind which the motor is hidden.
- Align the hole in the impeller and the recess in the rotor by manually turning the activator.
- Lock the rotor with a screwdriver by pushing it into the hole.
- Disconnect and remove the activator (if the washing machine was manufactured before 1985. turn the part clockwise, otherwise. counterclockwise).
- Pull out the drive mechanism, then remove the motor.
When disassembling and repairing a washing machine engine, you must take into account its type and the corresponding design features. In total, three types are known:
The first type is the simplest, it is a metal case, which contains the stator, rotor and tachometer. To establish contact between the motor and the rotor, two brushes are also included in the design, they supply current to the armature, a magnetic field is created and rotation begins. The speed of the latter directly depends on the voltage in the network. Such a motor is installed at the bottom of the washing machine and is connected by a belt to a pulley. The disadvantages of a collector motor include brushes that wear off over time and a belt that breaks or stretches.
The asynchronous type is practically not found today. It can be two-phase and three-phase, consists of a stationary stator and a rotor that rotates the drum with a belt. It is simply designed, unpretentious, has a low cost, and is easy to repair. The disadvantages include low power, due to which the drum at any moment can begin to rotate much weaker and make incomplete revolutions. This seriously affects the quality of the wash. That is why the induction motor is practically forgotten today and is not used.
How to properly remove the engine from the washing machine
- Engine types
- How to remove and replace the motor of a washing machine machine
- How to remove a collector motor
- How to remove an inverter motor
- How to remove and replace the motor on an activator-type washing machine
The main link of any modern washing machine is the engine. If this knot breaks, the technique will stop working. Replacing the motor by professional specialists is very expensive, so users are often interested in how to remove the washing machine motor on their own at home. This process is simple, if you know the correct procedure.
How to remove and replace a washing machine motor
The engine must be started to diagnose the problem. To do this, you need to make a serial connection of the stator and rotor windings, and then supply an alternating current with a power of 220 volts through the free connectors. The motor will start to rotate.
If the washing machine is many years old, the brushes will be practically worn out, and when the motor is running, strong sparking will be noticeable. Whole brushes are long and free from external defects. Otherwise, the brushes must be removed from the motor and replaced. New parts should only be purchased original, this will significantly increase the life of the washing machine.
Strong noises, heating of the motor, incomplete power of work indicate a faulty winding. To make sure of this, you need to take a multimeter, select the ohmmeter mode and measure the resistance on the adjacent lamellas. The difference should be no more than 0.5 ohms. Otherwise, the user will see a short circuit between the turns. In the same way, you need to check the operation of the stator. Next, you need to diagnose the short circuit of the windings on the stator or rotor housing.
To make sure the lamellae are worn out, you need to pull the rotor out of the motor and inspect the manifold. A malfunction will be reported by peeling of lamellas, burrs that appear, a break in the supply contact. All this leads to arcing of the brushes. Usually the lamellas overheat and peel off if the rotor becomes jammed or an inter-turn short circuit occurs.
Another popular machine malfunction is a broken or slipped belt. In cases where this problem occurs frequently, it may indicate a faulty pulley. It will need to be replaced. It is necessary to disassemble the washing machine, remove the belt, unscrew the fasteners, remove the pulley from the engine and replace it with a new one.
Today, two types of motors are installed in washing machines. inverter and collector. The first type rarely breaks down, it is very difficult to fix it at home, so you should contact the service center. If the collector motor breaks down, the cause may be worn brushes, damage to the winding or lamellas. Diagnostics can be performed independently, for this you need to remove the engine and inspect it. Usually, the fault is caused by brushes, which can be replaced on their own.
How to remove the motor on a Bosch washing machine?
Knowing how to independently remove the motor of a Bosch washing machine is important for every user of the machine. Without this manipulation, it will not be possible to repair and replace the engine with your own hands; you will have to pay the master or buy new equipment. Meanwhile, there are no particular complications in the procedure. even a novice master can figure it out. You just need to prepare the tools in advance and follow the instructions.
Features of dismantling the engine
Removing the engine from the washing machine is many times easier than dismantling bearings or disassembling a tank. But this routine procedure also requires knowledge and skill, since careless actions can lead to disastrous consequences. To avoid “surprises”, it is recommended to proceed in a strictly defined order:
- disconnect the washing machine from the power supply and water supply;
- move the unit away from the wall or turn it back towards you;
- remove the rear case cover by unscrewing the corresponding bolts;
- throw off the drive belt by pulling and scrolling the pulley wheel;
- find the engine located under the tank;
- with the T-20 socket head, twist the two self-tapping screws holding the electric motor;
- gently put the washing machine on the side on which the detergent tray is located;
- disconnect the ground and the terminal with wires from the engine;
- pry the motor with a screwdriver, moving it forward;
- remove the engine from the slots and, swinging, remove it from the housing.
When disassembling the washing machine, observe safety precautions. work with gloves and disconnect equipment from communications.
Be prepared for the fact that the electric motor is heavy. it weighs several kilograms. The engine removed from the body is placed on a dry and level place. It is now ready for diagnosis and repair.
Changing carbon brushes
Most often, motor repair consists of replacing brushes. They fail faster, more precisely, their carbon tips are erased during the operation of the washing machine, smoothing the friction force emanating from the device. It is not difficult to install new ones instead of old ones. you just need to find rods, dismantle and change.
It is recommended to record all your actions on a photo or camera in order to avoid mistakes and incorrect connection during reassembly.
It is not necessary to dive headlong into the study of the engine. Carbon brushes are easy to find, they are located directly on the motor, on both sides of the case, and are simple in design. It is difficult to confuse them. these are rectangular cases, with a connected electrical wire and a spring.
Disconnecting the electric brushes from the body is easy. We act like this:
- use a flat screwdriver to pry the terminal of the supplied wiring and unhook it;
- move the brush contact down;
- compress the spring;
- take out the brush.
Do not rush to throw out the brushes, they are probably intact, and the problem is not in them. To assess the condition of the rods, it is necessary to disassemble each case, inspect and measure the carbon tips. If the “coals” are less than 1.5-2 cm long, then you cannot do without replacement. Wholes are back in place.
Electric brushes always change in pairs, even if one of them has a tip of more than 2 cm.
Install new carbon handpieces in reverse order:
- we insert the first brush into the engine traverse, from where the old one was removed;
- compress the spring and insert it into the seat;
- we fix the terminal in the clamps of the upper part;
- we move the terminal to the wire, securing the brush.
All that remains is to put the connector with the wiring on the terminal. Then we take the second brush and fix it in the same way on the engine. At the “finish” we check the reliability of the contacts and fasteners, after which we return the motor to its place according to the instructions described earlier. Do not forget to start the washing machine to assess the engine’s performance. If the machine hums evenly, and the drum rotates, then everything is done correctly.
The washing machine engine is a key component that you need to be able to test and repair. This way you can extend the service life of the machine and save a lot of money.
Why remove the engine
Manufacturers install inverter motors in modern washing machines, evaluating their performance at 10-15 years. Therefore, such electric motors rarely break down. So you have a Washing machine with a traditional brushed motor.
Usually these engines suffer from such breakdowns:
- Brushes are erased, resulting in a loss of motor power.
- Punches the winding.
- Lamellas wear out, which also affects the power and stability of the part.
To be 100% sure of the nature of the breakdown, it is necessary to remove the electric motor and check it. It is important to do it right so as not to harm the machine even more.
Important! The lion’s share of all motor breakdowns falls on the brushes. Less often there are problems with the winding, and only occasionally the problem concerns the lamellas.
How to remove an engine from a washing machine
The electric motor is one of the central links of any washing machine. He is responsible for the speed of the drum during washing, rinsing and spinning. If the engine stops running, the wash will not start. Therefore, many users are concerned about the question of whether it is possible to remove the washing machine engine with their own hands in order to repair or replace it?
If you already have the skills to repair household appliances, then disassembling the washing machine will not seem difficult to you. The main thing is to take into account the type of washing machine, since the motors in this technique can be different: an asynchronous motor without brushes, a conventional collector motor or an engine with a direct drive.
In this article, you will find instructions for dismantling the motor with a photo and.
How to remove the motor
To remove the engine from the washer, it is worth following a clear procedure, stocking up with the necessary tools and taking photos or filming. This is necessary to capture the location of the wires and then put everything back together without any problems.
How to change the motor? Follow the instructions:
- Remove the back cover (for Indesit, Ariston, Candy, Zanussi, Electrolux) or the front cover (for Bosch, Siemens, Samsung, LG or Beko washing machine).
The back panel is held in place by multiple brackets. To remove the front panel, you need to remove the control panel, top cover and plinth panel. Read more on the pages: “How to disassemble an LG washing machine” and “How to disassemble a Bosch washing machine”.
- Under the tank you will see the motor, which is held in four seats. the engine is attached to two of them with screws. Before removing the fasteners, disconnect the drive belt, and also remove the supply and ground wires.
- Now proceed to unscrew the fasteners. In most models, a 13.
- After they are removed, pick them up with a thin screwdriver at the places where the engine is attached to the tank. Often these spots are sticky, so it will take some effort to remove the motor.
- After the motor gives in, pull it towards you and remove it from the machine.
Now you can repair the motor (see the article “How to replace the motor brushes in a washing machine”) or mount a new one.
To change the electric motor to a new one, buy an original analogue in advance and install it in the reverse order, having connected all the wires correctly. After assembling the washing machine, run a test wash to make sure you are doing the right thing.
Preparing for repair
Prepare your washing machine before proceeding with the repair. Unplug it and turn off the water supply.
You will need to remove the back wall to access the motor, so unscrew the inlet hose. Then drain the water from it.
Now go to the front panel. A drain filter is located below the hatch. Unscrew the filter and drain the remaining water into a container. It remains to move the machine away from the wall to access the rear panel.
This is a simple motor repair that you can do yourself. Brushes are located on the sides of the motor housing.
- Disconnect the wire with the brush terminal.
- Press down on the contact and pull the brush out by the spring.
Inspect the element for wear. If replacement is necessary, take a new brush and install it in its seat. Lower the contact from above, connect the terminal.
The first time after the replacement, the motor may run quite noisy, but this will pass when the brushes are rubbed.
How to recognize a problem with a motor
How to understand that a washing machine motor needs repair:
- Washing machine knocks out the switch in the electrical box when starting.
- There is a lot of noise during operation.
- Doesn’t work or does not start at high or low speed.
- The engine is constantly cut off from overheating. Washing machine stops.
- The machine does not start at all.
So, you have found out that the cause of the problem is in the motor. Next, you need to figure out how to remove the engine from the LG washing machine.
DIY LG washing machine engine repair
A breakdown of the engine leads to a complete stop of the washing machine, so it needs to be repaired or replaced. Here the user has two options: contact the workshop, or try to fix the problem yourself.
In this article, you will learn everything about how to replace and repair an engine in an LG washing machine with your own hands.
Winding problems can result in abnormal noises and a burning smell. At the same time, the motor does not work at full strength, its body heats up. You can check the condition of the winding with a multimeter.
Before disassembling the motor from the washing machine, prepare the tester, set it to the resistance measurement mode.
Check it like this:
- Connect one tester probe to the lamella, the other to the winding. The difference in resistance should be no more than 0.5 ohms. Otherwise, it is an interturn closure.
- Now connect the multimeter probe to the housing and lamellae. With good windings, the tester will show resistance equal to hundreds of megohms.
In the event of a malfunction, it is not recommended to repair the winding yourself. Since it is impossible to make it at home. You will have to completely replace the electric motor.
Step by step execution of work
Take a Phillips screwdriver and remove the bolts securing the back of the Washing machine. They are located around the perimeter. Below the tank you will see the engine. Now proceed like this:
- Remove the drive belt. To do this, pull it towards you with one hand, turn the drum pulley with the other. Put the strap aside.
- Before removing the motor from the washing machine, take a picture of the location of the wires so that after everything is connected correctly.
- Now disconnect all wires and terminals leading to the motor.
- It remains to unscrew the bolts that fix the motor. Armed with a 12 mm head, unscrew the bolts and remove the engine from the bushings, sliding it forward slightly.
The first stage is over. You have successfully removed the part. now is the time to inspect it. We have already written above what can break down in the engine. Therefore, proceed to check and repair.
Reasons for malfunction
Modern inverter motors rarely fail. If the machine is equipped with a collector motor, the following breakdowns may occur in it:
- Worn out electric brushes. They can quickly wear out due to overloading the drum during washing or due to constant spin at high speeds. Also, the cause of a breakdown may be a winding short circuit.
- Stator and rotor winding problems. As a result of a short circuit, the winding can break off, while the motor loses its speed or stops altogether. A problem winding can cause overheating of the motor housing. For protection, a thermal sensor is triggered and stops the engine.
- The lamellas have worn off, against which the electric brushes rub. Lamella areas could peel off, which also led to breakage.
DIY lamella repair
After you remove the rotor from the engine, you need to inspect the manifold. In the event of a malfunction, you will find delamination and roughness on the lamellas.
Use a lathe to grind the lamella gap. After grooving, clean the lamella from chips. Gaps must be perfectly even, without burrs.
If the lamella is severely damaged, it is impossible to repair the electric motor with your own hands. Will require a complete engine replacement.
You have learned how to disassemble an LG washing machine motor. Now you can decide whether it is worth repairing or is it easier to completely replace it.
Common types of breakdowns
Washing machine assemblies are electromechanical devices that move under the influence of current. They work under load, are exposed to tap water and temperature changes.
Here is a list of what might break:
- electric door lock;
- filling valve;
- pressure switch;
- Tubular Heater;
- temperature sensor;
- electric motor;
- speed sensor (“Hall sensor”);
- drum bearings;
- water pump;
- electrician (wire connections);
- seals and hoses.
If the machine has the functions of drying and steaming, then a few more items are added: steam generator, air heater, fan, air temperature sensor.
But the most popular reasons for contacting service centers are failure of the pump, Tubular Heater, filler valve, pressure switch, electrics and bearings.
In general, LG washing machines are very reliable and, compared to other common brands, break down much less often.
Filler valve repair options
Intake valve problems can manifest in different ways.
Problem # 1. Water is collected slowly, the powder in the dispenser is not completely washed off. Maybe the weak water pressure is to blame. If not, then the filter is clogged.
- Shut off the water supply to the washing machine.
- Unscrew the inlet hose directly at the machine inlet.
- Pull out the filter with pliers.
The plastic mesh is most likely clogged. It can be cleaned with a toothpick under running water.
Problem # 2. No water is collected. The error code “IE” may be displayed.
First check the filter as described in the previous point. If cleaning does not help, you need to get to the valve and check it with a multimeter. To do this, remove the plug from the socket and remove the top cover. it is attached with two self-tapping screws at the back. Having unscrewed them, slide the cover back a little, and then it will be removed without effort.
Check again that the power cord is not plugged in. Now disconnect the terminals from the valves. Use a multimeter to check the resistance: it should be in the range of 2.5. 4 kΩ.
Problem # 3. The machine does not wash, but water gurgles inside. It is pointless to check the electrical part of the valves. this is mechanical wear. The valve is not a very expensive part, it is usually not repaired. Just in case, mark the wires and photograph how it was. Replacement procedure:
- Remove the plug from the socket (most often 220 volts are supplied to the valves).
- Shut off the water.
- Remove the top cover by unscrewing the two self-tapping screws at the back and sliding it slightly back.
- Disconnect wires and hoses from valves.
The valve is attached with self-tapping screws or special latches. In the second case, it must be cranked while simultaneously pressing on the plastic buLGes from the outside. There should not be any difficulties with installing a new spare part.
DIY LG washing machine repair: frequent breakdowns and instructions for their elimination
South Korean LG brand washing equipment is very popular due to its reliability and functionality. There are complex technical units and simple parts in it, which you can replace yourself. It is not necessary to immediately run to the service center after detecting irregularities. After all, saving where you can not spend is always useful, really?
Those who want to repair the LG washing machine with their own hands will learn from us everything about common types of breakdowns and methods of dealing with irregularities in the operation of the washing machine. With our help, independent repairmen will solve any technical problem without problems and difficulties.
In the article offered to your attention, the types of problems that occur during the operation of LG machines are thoroughly analyzed. The options for their elimination are described, taking into account the manufacturer’s recommendations and design features. Visual and photo applications will help you master a difficult topic.
Replacing the pressure switch with your own hands
When the pressure switch fails. the machine is drawing up too much water. It happens that water is constantly collected and drained at the same time. Sometimes a breakdown of this sensor manifests itself in poorly wrung out laundry. The display may show the error code “PE”.
Removing this sensor is easy. Unplug the plug, remove the top cover by unscrewing the two screws at the back and sliding it back a little.
It is fastened with one self-tapping screw. First disconnect the terminal, then remove the sensor, and finally disconnect the hose from it. To check the pressure switch. you need to blow into it. In a working pressure switch, you will hear a click. Install the new pressure switch in reverse order.
How the washing machine works
What does a washing machine do? In fact, she pours water into the cabinet, heats it up and turns a drum full of dirty laundry. This happens in a certain way, which ultimately leads to cleaning the laundry from dirt.
Now a little more detail. As soon as the wash program has started, the first step is to open the water supply valve. Water flows through the dispenser into the tank.
Important parts of the machine to know:
- Dispenser. drawer for detergents.
- Tank. a plastic container containing a drum and a heating element (Tubular Heater). Water is poured into it.
- A pressure switch is a pressure switch. Monitors the water level in washing machines.
- Tubular Heater is a tubular electric heater. Heats the water.
The pressure switch gives the signal to stop the water supply as soon as the required volume is reached. Then the Tubular Heater comes on. There is always a water temperature sensor (thermostat) next to the Tubular Heaterm. As soon as he reports that the water is heated strictly to the desired temperature, the motor enters into action, which rotates the drum.
Towards the end of the wash, the pump starts working. this is the most often called the water drain pump. This is where the “production cycle” of the washing machine ends and the analysis of typical malfunctions of LG machines begins.
Diagnostics and repair of the main units of the machine
Washing machines are not fundamentally different from each other. The descriptions given here will help you navigate their device (even if your machine is not LG).
The first stage of repair work is diagnostics. You should not start replacing parts without completely convincing the cause of the breakdown. Failure of one or another element is signaled by special signs. The new generation machines have a system of hint codes that help determine the location and cause of the failure.
For most operations, a Phillips screwdriver will suffice. Pliers and nippers will help in some ways, but somewhere you will have to use keys and heads for 10 and 14. For more complex repairs (for example, replacing bearings), more cunning devices will be needed.
It is recommended to take paper tape and markers to facilitate the task. Before disconnecting the wires, mark them with adhesive tape labels with multi-colored numbers. Take a picture to be sure to assemble correctly later.
Most of the components and individual devices of the washing machine are not repaired. For example, when the Tubular Heater burns out. it needs to be changed entirely. To find a suitable model on the market, find out your machine’s model number (“Model No”) and its serial number (“S / No” or “Serial No”). They are written on a sticker or plate. Look for it on the case: under the drum door, behind, on the side.
Be sure to unplug the plug again before installing a new part. Many nodes operate on deadly 220 volts.
Electrical repair recommendations
The hardest part is to diagnose wiring problems. The electrician of the washing machine is responsible for the operation of all systems, and contact failures lead to a variety of consequences.
If you are not sure what exactly is out of order, check your electrician. Remove the plug from the socket, open the back and top covers. The bottom plastic panel can be removed if there are problems with the drain.
Inspect all wires and their connections regularly:
- Terminals must be clean and shiny.
- The color of the wire insulation should be bright and uniform.
- Water should not come into contact with wires and contacts.
When inspecting the insides of the washer, you may find wiring problems.
- oxidized contacts (white or green rough coating);
- darkened or whitened insulation;
- partially destroyed, cracked or burnt insulation;
- wet contacts.
If water gets on the contacts, they must be wiped or dried. Be sure to fix leaks. It is not enough to strip the oxidized terminals. Perhaps moisture constantly gets on them, so you have to find and eliminate the cause.
It is better to replace oxidized contacts. If possible, find the opposite end of this wire and replace it entirely. For such a repair, you will have to make friends with a 60 watt soldering iron. As a temporary measure, you can clean up the contact, but after a couple of weeks, re-examine.
If the insulation is broken, the wire definitely requires replacement. Darkened insulation is also a sign of poor contact and, as a result, wire overheating. Sooner or later the insulation will melt, a short circuit and fire may occur.
Bearing replacement instructions
These are perhaps the biggest laborers in the washing machine. They bear the entire load of the wet spinning and the weight of the drum. A damaged bearing is heard immediately: an unpleasant hum appears, especially loud when spinning.
The bearings are protected from water by an oil seal, which can also wear out. In this case, water will seep to the bearings, and then they will face a slow but sure death. The buzz is a pretty reliable indicator. As soon as it appears, take up the repair without delay. Delay can lead to more costly consequences.
The most difficult operation described here is bearing replacement. But by ignoring the buzz, you risk complicating things even more.
Due to faulty bearings, the drum rotates with an effort. The bearings begin to break the tank and the power element of the drum. the crosspiece. There is a possibility that the bearings have started to rust due to the wear of the oil seal. In this case, water from the tank will flow to the engine. Imagine the consequences.
Almost the entire machine must be disassembled to replace the bearings. The point is to remove the tank, disassemble it and remove the drum from it.
For work, in addition to screwdrivers, you will need:
- head 10;
- key or head 14;
- clamps for wiring (polypropylene ties);
- simple silicone sealant (no glue!).
Gloves and a flashlight will also help a lot.
Remove the plug from the socket. Remove the back panel and disconnect the wires going to the motor and heater. Remove all fasteners that secure the wires to the tank, cut the clamps with wire cutters. The tank itself hangs on two springs and is supported from below by two shock absorbers.
Most likely you have a direct drive machine. This means you have to remove the washing machine motor. Unscrew the center screw while holding the drum with your hand.
Be careful not to cut yourself on the edge of the case. Remove the rotor (moving part of the motor), then unscrew and remove the stator (respectively, the stationary part).
A large elastic cuff is located around the hatch for loading the laundry. It is wrapped by a clamp with a spring. Find this spring and, picking it up with a screwdriver, remove the clamp.
After dismantling the clamp, proceed as follows:
- The front panel can now be removed. It is held by self-tapping screws along the top and bottom edges. Pull the panel up slightly. Disconnect the wires going to the lock.
- Remove the pipes from the bottom (water may remain inside!) And the thin hose going up to the pressure switch.
- Remove the jumper that supported the front edge of the top cover.
- Remove dispenser and filler valve.
- Unscrew the counterweights with a 10 head. one on top and two in front.
It remains to disconnect the shock absorbers. They are attached with plastic pins; press the spring latches on the pointed ends of the pins and remove them (you can use pliers).
Make sure you disconnect everything. Now you can raise the tank and unhook the springs. Pull the tank forward carefully. Do not forget that the water level control tube is screwed on from the bottom, which can be accidentally broken. For peace of mind, you can take it off.
Further, it will be more convenient to work on the table. At this stage, you need to disassemble the tank and remove the oil seal and bearings from it. The tank consists of two parts, twisted with self-tapping screws under the head by 10. Disassemble the tank.
The drum is simply removed from the rear half of the tank without much difficulty. Next, we only need the rear half (forecastle). When working with it, remember about the Tubular Heater. do not bend or break it.
In the center of the forecastle, from the inside, you will see an oil seal. It also needs to be replaced. It won’t be difficult to pull it out using something like a lever (like a flat screwdriver). Place the forecastle with the outer side up and push the punch through the outer bearing. first knock out the inner.
Hit carefully! If the bearing is skewed, it can damage the forecastle. The blows should not be strong. Alternate the places of impact on the principle of “criss-cross”: first hit on the left edge, then on the right, then on the top, then on the bottom, and so on in the same order. Make sure that the bearing comes out evenly, without distortions.
The outer bearing is knocked out according to the same principle, only the forecastle needs to be turned over and supported so that the bearing “hangs” over the table.
Fitting new bearings and packing requires even more care. You can only hit the outer ring of the bearing. Using a punch, constantly check if the bearing is skewed.
Comprehensive instruction on bearing replacement with all the nuances will present:
Installing a new oil seal should also be careful. it is easy to bend. Don’t try to straighten it, you better buy another one.
The slightest flaws in the installation of these parts will lead to leakage. water will get to the bearings and then to the engine. Try to clean the drum shaft before assembly. Do not scratch or sand it.
The drum should fit easily into the bearings. Apply silicone sealant to the joint before reassembling the tank. When connecting the forecastles, make sure the Tubular Heater falls into the bracket provided for it. Do not tighten the screws with all your might. this is not necessary. Thanks to the sealant, the connection will be quite reliable.
Screw the water level control tube to the tank. Next, you just have to assemble the car. There shouldn’t be any difficulties. It is more convenient to work in this order:
- Hang the tank on the springs, attach the shock absorbers.
- Connect the pressure switch hose and secure it to the tank. The “extra” hose length must remain at the top.
- Install counterweights.
- Connect the bottom connections.
- Screw on the stator of the motor, connect the connectors to the stator and the Tubular Heater, secure the wires with clamps and brackets.
- Install the dispenser and the filler valve, connect the pipes and wires.
- Screw on the upper front jumper.
- Install the large front panel after connecting the lock connector.
- Pull out the hem of the cuff and slide it over the collar around the hatch. Place a clamp on the cuff.
- Install the motor rotor (or pulley). While tightening the center screw, hold the tank by hand from the front.
- Connect the wires to the top panel and install it.
Check again if everything is connected and secured.
Before installing the remaining panels, you can run a short dry program to check all connections for leaks. Once the machine is in place, level it.
Installing a new water heater
The error code is “HE”. Another sign is that the glass of the door is cold, while the water should be 40 ° C according to the program.
To verify that the Tubular Heater is defective, you need to remove the back cover, for this you need a Phillips screwdriver. First remove the plug from the socket, then unscrew the four self-tapping screws and pull the cover up slightly.
The heating element is located at the very bottom of the tank, three wires fit to it. The middle one is grounding, and the extreme ones are power, 220 volts. Disconnect these terminals and check the heater with a multimeter.
Disconnect the wires. To extract the Tubular Heater. you need to unscrew the nut in the middle and “drown” the stud. Using a screwdriver, pull out the heater as far as it will go.
Now remove the rubber seal by prying the edges with a flat screwdriver. Do not touch the edges of the hole with it! The slightest notches will break the tightness.
The new heating element is sold complete with a seal. When buying it, you will surely pay attention to the absence of an inner rim with an elastic band: do not be confused by this. It formed over time as the seal was sandwiched between the heater and the inner plate.
Your heater may have a built-in temperature sensor. If it is functional, then it is not necessary to change it. There is a bracket inside the tank. the heater must fit into it. After inserting it all the way, turn the drum by hand. If a scraping sound is heard, the Tubular Heater has passed above the bracket.
There is also a danger of missing below, and then the tank will suffer from the high temperature. Now tighten the nut, but lightly. Pour water into the tank. It is possible directly through the drum, for example, from the shower. Make sure the seal is not leaking, if necessary, slightly tighten the nut.
A professional guide to replacing the Tubular Heater is presented in the: