How To Remove A Pulley From A Washing Machine Engine

What is the detail, where is?

In layman’s terms, the washing machine pulley is a rather large round wheel that is located behind the washing machine drum. A belt is put on this wheel, which transfers engine speed to the pulley, which makes it rotate by itself and rotate the drum with dirty laundry. The mechanism is quite simple, primitive, but at the same time quite reliable and effective until, of course, it does not break.

Getting to the pulley is pretty easy. It is necessary to turn off the washing machine, pull it out of the niche in which it stands and unfold it. To find the pulley, you will either need to open the technical hatch, which is often located in the back of cars specifically for belt repair and pulley replacement, or if there is no hatch, remove the rear wall. In any case, unscrew a few screws, and you are at the target, remove the back wall or hatch, and the pulley will be in front of your eyes.

How To Remove A Pulley From A Washing Machine Engine

Engine speed is transmitted to the pulley through the belt, which means that the belt is the main weak point of the mechanism. Many masters think so, and they are right, but there is one but. Frequent breaks and slippage of the belt can be the result of a faulty pulley and notice this malfunction, sometimes only an experienced eye can.

Note! In very rare cases, the belt flies and breaks due to the engine, and not due to the pulley.

Replacement

To replace a part, you must first carefully remove the old drum pulley. It can be quite difficult to do this, since it is not just put on the drum shaft, but is also fixed with a bolt, which in turn is not just screwed in, but seated on a sealant. But first things first.

  • Disconnect the washing machine from the power supply, water supply and sewerage.
  • We take it out to a free place so that it is convenient to work. If there is a shed or workshop, it is better to drag it there.
  • We take a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the screws holding the back wall or service hatch.
  • We remove the back wall.
  • Next, you need to remove the drive belt from the engine and pulley.
  • We inspect the pulley, make sure there is damage.
  • We take a small wooden block and clamp the pulley and crosspiece with it. This is necessary so that the shaft with the pulley does not rotate and does not interfere with unscrewing the bolt.
  • Now we take a blowtorch and heat the bolt a little, but do not red-hot it. Until the bolt has cooled down, spray it with WD-40 grease or similar.
  • We wait a little while the grease comes into contact with the remnants of the sealant, then the key is thrown in and the bolt is unscrewed.

The bolt may not budge the first time, do not despair, take a hammer and gently tap on the key. Over time, in this way it will be possible to rip off the bolt, but you do not need to knock too hard so as not to damage the edges.

Then it remains only to remove the drum pulley and continue the repair. In the next step, we need to check the engine pulley. Very often, when problems arise with the drive belt, the cause lies in the engine pulley. Removing it is even more difficult than the drum pulley. You may also need to change the motor brushes. How to remove an engine pulley?

  • First, we unscrew and remove the washing machine engine, not forgetting to disconnect the wires from it.
  • We take a special puller for pulleys and bearings.
  • We clamp the pulley of the washing machine motor with a puller, creating maximum tension. It will not be possible to immediately rip the pulley off the shaft, so do not break the puller, it costs money.
  • We take a gas burner and carefully heat the pulley, while trying not to heat the puller itself and the shaft.
  • Increase the tension as the pulley heats up, it should come off. If the gas torch does not give a sufficient temperature, take a blowtorch, but handle it with extreme care.

With the dismantling of the drum pulley and the engine pulley is over, now we need to install new pulleys. Putting on the drum pulley is not difficult. You just need to put a new part on the drum shaft, lubricate the bolt with sealant and tighten it with a wrench. The engine pulley will take a little tinkering.

  • We take a blowtorch and light it.
  • We are waiting for the lamp to properly warm up and begin to give the maximum flame temperature. To speed up the heating of the lamp nozzle, you can direct the flame of a gas burner at it.
  • Clamp the new engine pulley with pliers and heat it with a blowtorch.
  • We put the heated pulley on the engine shaft, and then quickly, until it cools down, we press it in with a hammer and a metal rod.

Keep in mind that you should hit lightly to avoid breaking the engine. Typically, hot pressing does not require much effort. Once the pulley has cooled, it will sit securely on the shaft. That’s all, you just have to put the engine back in place, then put on the drive belt and put the back wall. The car can be tested!

How to detect a breakdown?

A sure sign that a washing machine pulley needs replacement is frequent belt problems. If the belt flew off several times, then it stretched out and fell into disrepair, but you changed it and the problem remained, then the problem is not with the belt, but with the pulley.

Cheap washing machines assembled in Russia and China, made from counterfeit parts, often have a similar problem. A slightly bent pulley is installed on the washer right at the factory, and then, soon, the owner’s brain begins to “hover”. Sometimes pulleys are made so clumsy that sharp metal burrs and edges can be seen in their working grooves, due to which the belt is frayed in 5-6 washes.

Important! When removing the old belt from the electric motor and the pulley of the washing machine, carefully inspect it. Any scuffs, tears and cracks should alert you.

If there are frequent belt problems, or the drum rotates too slowly during washing and spinning, check the condition of the pulley. It is not necessary to remove the pulley for this. Do the following:

  • remove the back wall of the washing machine;
  • remove the belt, for this, grasp the belt with your left hand, and with your right hand, twist the pulley, the belt and it will come off;
  • grasp the pulley with both hands and swing it from side to side;
  • gently run your finger along the working surface of the pulley and check it for sharp edges and burrs;
  • inspect the pulley for deformation.

If defects are found: bent and sharp edges and other things, the pulley must be replaced. Do not leave everything as it is, otherwise the belt will have to be changed every two months, or even more often.

Replacing a washing machine pulley

Some breakdowns in automatic washing machines may require a pulley replacement. A washing machine pulley is a specific part that does not break very often, but if it breaks, it can create a problem. The fact is that a breakdown of a pulley cannot always be diagnosed immediately, especially if you do not know the specifics. As part of the article, we will try to talk about the problem in more detail so that in the future it will arise as rarely as possible.

Interesting:

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  • Repair of malfunctions of Asko washing machines
  • DIY Gorenje washing machine malfunction repair
  • How to repair a Bosch washing machine
  • Repair of malfunctions of washing machines Zanussi
  • Bosch dishwasher errors

3 reader comments

Many thanks to the author for the tip. heat the tank pulley bolt. The bolt “sat” dead. Only he heated it not with a burner, due to the lack of one, but with a SKIL hairdryer for 1800 watts. Before heating, I covered the plastic of the tank with corrugated cardboard, just for everyone. Then the hair dryer went to the 3rd position (about 570 degrees) and heated the bolt for about 2 minutes. Then a slight blow to the key, and. my dear went 🙂
Further, like yours., with the only difference that I had a bolt M12x30, flush 90 °, with an internal. 6 grains to “8”
By the way, also with heated bushings, I repressed both tank bearings.
P.S. Noticing such garbage. The end of the sleeve facing the tank is badly damaged by corrosion. The material of the bushing is, judging by its appearance, from third-rate aluminum. alloy, g….o, in other words.

I have a hair dryer for microcircuits. its power was not enough, but there is a camp stove together with hammer blows. they do not leave anyone indifferent! Unscrewed!)

Masterpiece tips. But what if the pulley is plastic? Heat with a soldering iron or a hairdryer? # 128578;

The device and principle of operation of the pulley. Typical problems

The wheel consists of two rings that are connected by stiffening ribs. The part is attached to the drum shaft by means of a bolt, and is located on the rear wall of the tank.

Belt-driven washing machines also have a small pulley. It is fixed to the motor shaft. The principle of the system is simple:

  • The motor starts.
  • It transmits torque to the large tank rim by means of a drive belt.
  • The wheel rotates, as a result of which the tank with the drum rotates.
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The motor tachometer is responsible for the regulation of the speed.

Most often, the pulley is made of steel, but it can be of other metals. The surface is coated with anti-corrosion compounds to protect it from rust. Therefore, the part rarely fails. In addition, without visual inspection, it is difficult to understand that the cause of the breakdown is precisely in the reverse wheel.

What problems can happen:

  • The mount is loose (the most common problem). At the same time, you can hear knocks and noise during the operation of equipment.
  • Physical wear: cracks on the surface. Drum rotation is disturbed, full stop of work.
  • Deformation of the shape of the product. common in factory marriage. In-line production can be so “clumsy” that burrs remain on the surface, which is why the belt quickly frays and requires replacement.

You may notice a problem with the slow rotation of the drum while spinning. Or when the machine stops working during normal operation of the electronics. In such cases, it is recommended to check the drive belt and impeller.

How to replace a washing machine pulley

Have you ever wondered how the drum of the typewriter rotates? The manufacturer installed an uncomplicated mechanism, which consists of an engine, belt and rim. The latter is a wheel that is attached to the tank. If it turns out that the washing machine has stopped due to a broken wheel, then you need to know how to replace the washing machine pulley.

How to check and remove the pulley from the drum and motor of the washing machine?

For repair, you will need to remove the back of the Washing machine. Stick to safety precautions.

Unplug the washing machine from the outlet. Close the inlet valve.

Place a container underneath and disconnect the inlet hose from the body. Then follow the instructions:

  • Dismantle the top cover by unscrewing the fastening screws at the back.
  • Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter, remove the rear panel.
  • If the belt does not come off, remove it from its place.
  • Inspect the rim for kinks and deformations. Shake it by hand to check if it is firmly attached. Run your hand along the edge for burrs?

In case of any malfunction, it is necessary to remove the pulley and install a serviceable part. How to do it right:

  • Lock the wheel in one position. Use the tools at hand. You can install a bar under the stiffener.

It is sometimes difficult to unscrew the center bolt. It sticks to the seat or is attached with a sealant.

To solve the problem, heat the bolt with a blowtorch and spray with WD-40 liquid. Wait half an hour and unscrew the mount.

Pull the wheel off the shaft by pulling it toward you. Before fixing the new pulley on the shaft, inspect the seat, clean it from working if necessary. Install a new element, lubricating the bolt with sealant.

We pass to the driving element of the motor. It is more difficult to dismantle it, because the part sits firmly on the sleeve. You will need a special puller and torch.

Repair of a pulley on a washing machine motor:

  • Dismantle the engine. It is located under the washer tank.
  • Disconnect its wiring and remove the bolts.
  • Place the puller on the part to be removed. She sits tightly, so the first time you can’t take it off.
  • Using a burner, warm up the element, so the metal expands and the mount gives in.

How to fit a pulley onto a shaft with a key:

  • Also heat the new part with a soldering iron or torch. Hold it with pliers.
  • Put the ring back in place.

How to fix the pulley to the motor shaft? To do this, press it in with hammer blows on the rod. The procedure is performed until the element has cooled down.

After cooling, the ring will securely attach to the shaft. That’s all the work. Now put the engine back in place and secure the belt. If the latter is damaged, worn out. put a new element.

  • Put the belt on the rim of the motor first.
  • Then scrolling to the tank wheel.
  • Scroll the tank by hand. Everything should rotate easily, without difficulty and unnecessary noise.

It will not be possible to avoid a factory defect, but you can prevent damage if you follow the operating rules. Do not overload the drum with linen, watch the bearings. If there is extraneous noise, it is better to immediately remove the Washing machine panel and check what is the matter. Delaying the problem will not solve it, on the contrary, it can lead to the complete destruction of the washing machine.

will help you cope with DIY repairs:

How to disassemble a cartridge?

After disconnecting the chuck from the rotary shaft, the question of disassembly and repair arises. It should be noted that undertaking such repairs at home is not always justified. You may need special keys and accessories that not everyone has. In addition, many manufacturers specifically make their products non-collapsible. Cast plastics and expanded metal products cannot be disassembled and reassembled without changing material properties. It is unlikely to preserve dynamic characteristics at all.

Clamping jaws jam

A second common chuck malfunction is jamming of the chuck jaws. This most often happens when drills that are larger than the recommended diameter are inserted into the chuck. Or when, during repair, the working part of the cams is abundantly lubricated with grease. Over time, dust and debris that gets inside the chuck will cement with the lubricant and break the thread rims or jam the jaws themselves.

This can be corrected by disassembling the cartridge and thoroughly cleaning the cams from accumulated debris. If the thread inside the mechanism turns out to be intact, the cartridge can be assembled and operated for a long time.

Many experienced craftsmen, when drilling in extremely dusty conditions, protect the chuck from debris by putting half a tennis ball on the drill.

The long life of a tool depends on correct use and regular maintenance. If the tool is broken, you cannot work with it. This is especially true for household electric drills with clamping chucks. a flying drill can cause injury. Remove the faulty cartridge and put a new one within the power of a home craftsman. Cartridges for household appliances are not always subject to repair, so it is recommended to hand them over to the scrap or contact a professional.

How to remove a pulley from a washing machine engine without a puller

A belt drive is used to transfer torque from the motor shaft to the drum. When replacing? ball bearings of the rotor or damage to the drive wheel, it becomes necessary to remove the pulley from the washing machine motor. The impeller is fitted with an interference fit and secured against turning with a key or screw.

What is the function of the chuck in the drill

The drill chuck is one of the main components of the electric drill mechanism. It serves to transfer rotary motion from the electric motor to the working tool. Its task also includes fixing the drill in such a way that the maximum accuracy of hole drilling, reliable fastening and quick tool change are observed during work.

In all drills, the tool is clamped in the chuck

keyless chuck repair

If the chuck is collapsible, such as cam chucks with a key and keyless chucks, then repairs should be started only in compliance with all personal safety measures, in well-lit and equipped rooms. After directly disassembling the cartridge and diagnosing the problem, replace the damaged part and reassemble everything in the reverse order.

Some masters advise lubricating the internal mechanisms of the cartridge with heavy lubricants (such as “Litol” or “Graphite”) when repairing. However, this is absolutely impossible to do, since during operation, dust and chips formed during drilling will stick to the lubricant. Having accumulated on the internal cavities of the mechanism, they will cause damage to threads and other rubbing parts.

The only exception is the SDS cartridge, in which the lubricant is technologically incorporated, based on its design features.

See

What functions does the node perform?

With the help of a small pulley on the motor shaft and a large pulley on the drum shaft, the high revolutions generated by the electric motor are converted into high torque to turn the drum, overcoming the inertial resistance of water and laundry inside the tank.

Pulley for washing machine Indesit

LG washing machines labeled Direct Drive do not have this assembly. The transmission of torque from the motor to the drum is carried out directly by installing the latter on the rotor axis. All other brands have pulleys. Indesit, Siemens, Bosch, Electrolux and others.

What are the options for fastening the node

To remove the pulley from the electric motor that drives the tank with a belt, you must first set its type of fit.

Mounting methods differ externally and are defined as:

  • spline connection (has a serrated edge of the shaft end);
  • “Hot” fit (the end of the engine axis is visually smooth and completely round);
  • keyed fit (a groove is visible at the end);
  • fit on a cone with a locknut (visually noticeable presence of fasteners).

Washing machine drive pulley machine

The vast majority of modern front-loading washing machines (Indesit, Bosch, Electrolux, LG and others) are equipped with a V-belt drive. Their pulley looks like a cylinder with lateral annular grooves. The fit of the part is usually slotted or hot. The large wheel that rotates the tank is usually secured with a locknut or screw.

Activator-type machines and old models of front-end with a lower engine location are equipped with a conventional V-belt, and the pulley for them has deep rims that prevent the belt from slipping off. These parts often have a keyway and a threaded connection.

How to get to the detail

The process of disassembling washing machines of all brands must begin with disconnecting the device from the power supply, draining the water and disconnecting from communications. An important condition is to ensure free access to all parts of the device, so it must be moved to an empty, well-lit place.

On the Indesit washing machine, the unit is dismantled complete with an electric motor. To get to it, you must partially disassemble the device.

To work you need to prepare tools:

  • screwdrivers (flat, Phillips or “star”);

Slotted flat screwdriver

  • pliers;
  • a set of keys or heads (basically two sizes are needed: 10 or 12 and 17 or 19, depending on the model);
  • bearing puller (universal with three “legs”);

Bearing puller

  • manual gas burner or building hair dryer (optional);
  • rags, liquid for processing acidified compounds (in difficult cases).
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The sequence of actions when removing the engine from the washing machine using the example of an Indesit brand device:

  • Remove the top cover of the device by unscrewing the two screws on the back wall.
  • Having removed the fasteners along the edges of the rear wall, set it aside, at the same time inspecting the surface of the drum for scuffs or tracks from water leaks. Wipe off graphite dust from brushes.
  • Remove the belt: pry it with your hand or with a screwdriver while slowly spinning the larger wheel.
  • Unscrew the two bolts securing the electric motor and pull it out.

The removed engine must be cleaned of dirt and fixed on a workbench or table. Then tighten the puller on the part and locally heat it with a burner or hair dryer to a temperature of 100-150 ° C. This will destroy the epoxy that the splines are coated with at the factory. The part of the shaft that enters the bearing and the adjacent part of the motor must be insulated against high temperatures. The easiest way to do this is with a wet rag, after making sure that excess moisture does not get inside, onto the windings.

Without a puller (purchased or homemade), it is impossible to pull the part off the shaft without damaging the entire unit.

Understanding how to remove the pulley from the motor of the Indesit washing machine will help.

How to remove a washing machine motor pulley

Depending on the manufacturer, model and the availability of special devices for unpressing the master, in order to remove the pulley from the engine of the washing machine, it will take from 30 minutes to several hours.

How to remove the drive from the drum

To remove the pulley from the drum of the washing machine, it must be locked with a wooden block (hammer handle, etc.) inserted between the spokes of the wheel, and at the same time unscrew the locking screw (or nut, depending on the model) located at the end of the drum shaft.

If the nut on the washer drum does not give in to hand force, it should be treated with WD40 liquid or slightly heated with a hand torch. It is possible to tear off the “stuck” fastener by a sharp blow on the handle of the key put on the nut or on the end of a powerful screwdriver inserted into the screw groove.

Other homemade products based on the sharpener scheme

The above work will have to be done if you want to get other, a wide variety of machines.

  • Wood lathe. The 180-watt motor from the old washing machine will allow, with little effort, slowly, to process cylindrical workpieces. You will definitely need a kind of tailstock to stop the workpiece. This will protect the motor shaft from lateral loads.
  • Drum grinder. For this, a large-diameter wooden cylinder is used, in the center of which a steel bar runs, one end of which is clamped into the engine chuck, the other is attached to a bearing in a support. The surface is pasted over with sandpaper, you can sharpen knives, planer blades if you have devices for keeping the angle, perform other operations.

Immediately, we note that the sawmill from the washing machine engine will not work. there will not be enough torque.

But furniture makers and other home craftsmen will like the idea of ​​making a horizontal drilling device for working with eccentric fasteners.

  • The machine is made, as described above, with a chuck on the shaft.
  • A supporting, guiding shelf is made, horizontal, at such a height that the axis of the shaft runs along the center of the end face of the chipboard or wood part.
  • A drill is inserted into the chuck, the part is fed horizontally, you can visually track the drilling depth.

To create a place for installing a circular eccentric, it is enough to use a drill, a vertical drilling machine and a milling cutter of the required diameter. This operation does not require high precision. The main, responsible task of accurately drilling a channel for a cylindrical pin will be performed by machine tools from an engine from an old washing machine.

Grinder or sharpener from the washer engine

After the electrical connection is completed and the washing machine engine comes to life, you can start making homemade products. The most common is a small sharpener. If you use a circle from a grinder, you can cut plastic pipes, an aluminum corner.

You can adapt the engine to work as a grinder; for this, a circular nozzle with fine or coarse sandpaper is placed on the shaft. The list of works is as follows:

  • The engine must be securely fastened. It is most convenient to do this on a small board, which can then be easily placed on a table, workbench, or any convenient surface.
  • You can attach the electric motor of an old washing machine to corners or with circular clamps made of a strip of galvanized steel. To compensate for vibration and electrical insulation, in the latter case, rubber is placed between the engine and the fasteners.
  • Asynchronous motors from old drum washing machines have an open design, where dust, moisture, sawdust gets into. This can cause shorts and faults of all kinds. Therefore, when fastening, the most advantageous option is to completely “hug” the engine with a strip of galvanized steel.

There are several ways to connect the chuck or the seat of the grinding stone, grinder wheel, grinding attachment.

  • Thread the chuck fit directly onto the shaft.
  • Weld an adapter from several pipes of different diameters. On one side, the fit of the grinding wheel is calculated, on the other, the inner diameter of the tube must correspond to the size of the shaft. This part of the adapter is heated, stuffed onto the shaft, after cooling, the parts are very tightly and reliably connected.

It is worth noting that the drill chuck is the most attractive option, unless you want to make a sharpener with a stone. It is easy to fit almost any tool into it: a drill, a milling cutter, a grinding round head, a wire brush nozzle for stripping paint, a felt block. There is no difficulty in making an adapter for a grinder circle.

Even a novice home craftsman can assemble such a machine and use it for a variety of purposes. The main thing is to correctly connect the motor and spend some effort on forming a reliable fastening of the working unit.

Advice! If only a high-speed engine is available, it is recommended not to reduce its speed, but to make a separate unit with its own shaft, and transmit torque to it through a pulley with a reduction factor.

Motor connection

A multimeter is required to arrange the winding wires. It is also useful to prepare side cutters or pliers for stripping the veins. The list of other tools depends on what kind of equipment will be assembled for the engine.

Connecting the unit to AC.

  • We define pairs. We put one probe on any core, and with the other we check the rest. If the multimeter gave a signal, it means that a pair was found.
  • We find the indicator of the resistance of the two windings. The highest value indicates the starting pair.
  • Different tandems are connected in pairs, and then connected to a common 220 V network.
  • The off button can be installed on the starting winding cable.

Sometimes it is necessary to reverse the direction of rotation of the motor. It is enough just to change the outputs of the starting winding.

Where can the engine be adapted from the washing machine

A worn-out washing machine should not be thrown away immediately. Especially if you have sufficiently developed skills in working with hand tools, and there is a habit of tinkering in the workshop. Various homemade products from a washing machine engine can be extremely useful in a household.

What are the engines

The class and age of the car determines which engine will be in the hands. If we are talking about an old, Soviet one, it will be an open-type asynchronous device, quite reliable. The engine from an old drum-type washing machine has a power of 180 watts, but it is very convenient for homemade products, since it has excellent torque indicators. In other cases, the following may fall into the hands:

  • two-speed motor from a washing machine with fixed 350 and 2800 rpm;
  • a collector unit that accelerates the shaft up to 12-15,000 rpm with direct voltage supply without adjustment;
  • engines from modern washing machines of various classes, since today manufacturers often do not follow a common equipment standard.

It is worth mentioning right away the inverter motor, which is equipped with the most modern washing machine. To start such a unit, a control circuit is required. It must first convert the alternating current into direct current, and then create a new signal and change the frequency of the output voltage to regulate the speed on the shaft. But if the set to the engine also contains power electronics from a washing machine, this will be an extremely useful addition.

Vibrating table

Another useful piece of equipment widely used for the production of paving slabs. In contrast to the solutions described above, this design is much simpler. For assembly, you need a table and a separate metal plate.
Assembling the vibrating table.

  • At each corner of the plate, we weld on a spring of the same height.
  • At the corners of the table, in the same way, we organize a receiver for them comparable in size.
  • We fix the engine between the legs by means of transverse metal strips.
  • We stretch the wiring and display the block on / off.

Advice! If the table is large or the engine is not as powerful, then the vibration force can be increased by installing the motor on eccentrics that will swing it.

Concrete mixer

Renting and even more buying factory equipment is fraught with serious expenses. For works of medium complexity, it will be more practical to make a concrete mixer with your own hands. If you use an engine from a powerful washing machine, then the efficiency of the technique will increase significantly.
Assembling the concrete mixer.

  • The foundation must be stable. Welded channels would be ideal, but you can save money and replace them with a wooden bar. We choose the height at our discretion, but not lower than 0.5 m.
  • The shafts of the engine and the tank must be in the same plane. For this, the design provides special shelves that fix the motor.
  • We install the gearbox so that the pulley and the engine are on the same level. Otherwise, the unit will fail very quickly due to strong overloads.
  • An old washing machine centrifuge can act as a container. We mount the shaft into the tank and symmetrically fix curved blades on it, which will interfere with the solution.
  • Putting the Start and Shutdown buttons together with the rest of the wiring.
  • We put the belts on the pulleys and, if necessary, tighten them.
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When fully loaded, part of the solution may splash out, falling on the gearbox and motor. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to organize protection for them: hard or soft covers made of scrap materials.

Grain crusher

Equipment of such a plan allows you to significantly save on the production of feed for livestock. If a sufficiently powerful engine is at your disposal, then you can build a completely sensible grain crusher, which is in no way inferior in return to industrial options. Motors on large washing machines of the medium budget or premium level have similar characteristics.
In addition to the unit, you will need a housing. The best option would be a design from an old top-loading machine. If such a case was not at hand, then you can find a lot of options at almost any point of receiving metal for a penny.

  • When choosing knives, it should be borne in mind that at the time of cutting, they should almost touch the edges of the body, not reaching 3-4 mm.
  • A hole must be made on the bottom of the structure to drain the finished feed.
  • Inside, we install two blades: one moves away from the upper edge by 40-50 cm, and the second is at the bottom. It is better to use two shafts rotating in opposite directions for better grinding.
  • We fix the engine on the top of the washing machine and assemble the shafts with it.
  • Loading the crusher is easier if you make a hole in the lid instead of removing it every time.

Important! The engine will need periodic rest during grinding.

In the issue of homemade products from an old washing machine, everything is decided by the imagination and specific engineering skills of the performer. It’s easy to make a fruit cutter, a lawn mower with steel knives, an electric scythe with a string cutter, even a plucking machine for chickens and ducks. The main thing is to thoughtfully approach the solution of the task.
Not only a washing machine can become the basis for various homemade products. You can give a second life to a microwave oven, refrigerator, vacuum cleaner. If you do not know how or just do not want to use an obsolete technique, you can get rid of it in various ways, described in this article.

What to do if the winding is faulty

What if we find a short circuit or open circuit? The best option is to find the same rotor or the same stator. If we give the engine to rewind, then we will be charged so much that is enough for a new engine and there will still be change. This is due to the fact that in addition to rewinding, the rotor must be centered to avoid beating.

Removing the engine from the washing machine

But back to our brushed motor. How will we repair it? First, we’ll look at how to remove it. First of all, remove the back cover and belts as well as when replacing a washing machine belt. After that, we proceed to remove the bolts holding it. the fastening system may differ slightly. Also, do not forget to disconnect the connecting terminals with which the motor is connected to the supply wires.

On some models, the engine may be jammed by the tank itself. In this case, the tank will need to be slightly raised, which will allow the motor to be released with relative ease. By the way, the number of bolts holding the engine may differ. prepare a set of keys to remove them.

Is the back cover blocking access to the engine and removing it? Then try to remove one of the side walls. it is quite possible that this is where access to the engine will be located.

Rotor and stator winding

If the motor runs with incomprehensible noises or does not reach full power, hums strongly or heats up, then the reason for this may be a malfunction of the windings. The windings are checked using the most ordinary multimeter (in ohmmeter mode), by successively touching the probes to the adjacent lamellas. The difference in resistance should not exceed 0.5 ohms. If this is not the case, then we can diagnose an interturn short circuit.

We also need to determine the health of the stator. this is done in a similar way. Lastly, we check the closure of all windings to stator or rotor iron (to the case). To do this, we use a multimeter, attaching one probe to the case, and the second passing through the lamellas and the output of the stator windings. If the windings are serviceable, then the resistance will be very high (tens and hundreds of megohms).

Brushes

If your washing machine is about 10 years old, then the brushes will be in a terrible state. this is most often indicated by a strong arcing of the engine. Worn out brushes are small, you will see it right away. If the brush is intact, then it will be long enough, without chips or cracks. If this is not the case, then you need to make a replacement.
When replacing brushes, try to use original components. this will increase the service life of the repaired motor. Choosing brushes for a washing machine and replacing them yourself is a simple matter, but a responsible one.

Troubleshooting the motor

Brush motors have one major advantage. simplicity. Three things most often break here. brushes, lamellas, windings. Let’s figure out how to inspect the components and troubleshoot. But before that, let’s try to start the engine, since we need to see if it works or not.

To start the engine, you need to connect the rotor and stator windings in series, and then connect an AC source with a voltage of 220 volts to the remaining connectors. If all goes well, the engine will start to rotate. At this time, we can determine its noisiness, identify sparkling brushes.

Replacing brushes on the washing machine motor

Brushes on collector motors are easy to change. Only some models can cause us some inconvenience. sometimes the brush mounts are hidden deep in the engine, so you have to completely disassemble it. This is typical for old engines, and in new models everything is much easier. you can get by with an ordinary screwdriver by prying the mounts protruding near the manifold itself.

If your car has an old-style engine with closed brushes, then it needs to be disassembled. Try to disassemble it so that you can easily and quickly return it to its original state without confusing anything. As a last resort, photograph every step you take. After replacing the brushes, try to crank the engine. the brushes should rustle along the lamellas softly, without loud noises, without clinging to them.

Lamella wear

Lamella wear is as easy to diagnose as brush wear. To do this, you just need to inspect the manifold, completely removing the rotor from the engine. Peeling lamellas, breaking the lead contact, the presence of burrs. all this leads to the fact that the brushes begin to spark.

The reason for the peeling of the lamellas is a jammed rotor or the presence of an inter-turn short circuit. As a result, the lamella begins to overheat and flake off. If the contact is broken at the junction with the lamella, then the reasons may be the most, but it can be very difficult to return the wires back.

Self-repair of the washing machine engine

The most important driving element of a modern washing machine is its electric motor. He is responsible for the rotation of the drum in the washing, rinsing and spinning modes. And if it breaks down, the device will freeze. Is it possible to repair the engine of a washing machine with your own hands without resorting to the help of experienced specialists?

With straight arms and certain skills in repairing simple household appliances, you can repair anything, including the washing machine engine. If you are sure that the reason for the lack of performance is the engine malfunction, you can start removing it and carrying out repair work.

Before you start repairing a washing machine engine, you need to get information about the type of engine used in a particular machine, because depending on the type of washing machine, it can have a different type of engine. Brushless asynchronous motor, simple brushed motor or direct drive motor can be installed here.

Asynchronous motors are highly resistant to breakdowns, but they are rarely used in modern washing machines. Collector motors are another matter. they work on the vast majority of devices. They are characterized by good technical data and low cost, they can work up to 8-10 years.

In addition to machines with brushed motors, there are direct drive models on the market. They use special motors, which are almost impossible to repair on their own. And manufacturers give them such a long warranty that it is easier to send a broken engine to a service center for repair. For example, LG engines have a 10-year warranty.

Lamella groove yourself

Is the slats peeling off? Then you need to assess the scale of the disaster. If the lamella has literally peeled off by 0.5 mm, an ordinary groove on a lathe will help. we clamp the rotor and carefully align the thickness of the lamellas. After that, carefully clean the gaps between the lamellas, there should be no traces of metal shavings in them.

As a result, we get a flat surface of many lamellas, with well-cleaned gaps. in order to be sure of this, we check the resistance between the lamellas with an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter shows a short circuit, then the gaps between the lamellas need to be cleaned more carefully.

By the way, the groove of the lamellas does not always give positive results, since most often we eliminate the effect, not the cause. It should also be remembered that it is almost impossible to return the lamellas to the factory form, therefore the groove is not a panacea. If the lamella has peeled off completely or has come off, you should send the engine to the trash can. nothing can be done here at home.

Do not despair if the engine could not be repaired, because with it you can make various homemade products from a washing machine, for example, a grinder.