How To Check Tena On A Washing Machine With A Multimeter

How the washing machine lock works and how it works

Washing machines from different manufacturers are equipped with one of two types of door closure devices:

  • Electromagnetic. Cannot boast of reliability and efficiency.
  • With bimetallic elements. They are often found on modern typewriters. popular. The principle of operation of such a lock is based on the close cooperation of three elements:
  • retainer;
  • thermoelement;
  • bimetallic plate.

When a command is received from the equipment control module, the washing machine door lock device receives a current charge on the thermoelement. The thermocouple heats up instantly, which leads to the heating of the bimetallic plate, which becomes even longer and expands from this. In this state, she presses the latch and it immediately reacts and the lock of the washing machine is locked. Until the plate cools down, the door will be locked.

When the electricity supply is cut off, the thermocouple does not receive heat and the plate cools down, which leads to the unlocking of the door. If the lock device or the triac, which is responsible for its operation in the control module, breaks down, with a constant voltage supply to the lock, it will not be able to open until the machine is de-energized. If the contact of the heating element is broken or breaks through, then heating will not occur at all and then the hatch will not be able to close.

Washing machine lock: device, repair and replacement

The lock of the washing machine is not the most complicated device, but without it, washing is impossible. It is needed to block and seal the hatch during washing, rinsing and spinning the laundry.

This device is designed to provide reliable automatic protection against unintentional opening of the door and, in the event of a breakdown, stops the wash program. The door locking device in case of malfunction and wear requires repair or replacement of the lock on the washing machine.

How to check the lock of a washing machine

To determine the operability of the washing machine lock device, you will need a tester. a multimeter. The lock is removed before checking. For this:

  • open the hatch in the washing machine;
  • find a wire ring;
  • remove the ring with a screwdriver;
  • adjust the cuff so that you can get the lock;
  • unscrew the bolts that attached the lock and pull it out.

It is necessary to find out where is the phase, where is neutral, and where is the common contact.

A device with a bimetallic plate is produced by many companies and the arrangement of the contacts is often different. Without studying the circuit, it is very difficult to use a multimeter and check it.

Let’s assume that we have sorted out the contacts. Let’s start checking.

  • Tumbler of the device switches to test mode.
  • One probe is attached to the neutral contact, the other to the phase contact.
  • If the tester shows a three-digit number, then everything is fine.
  • Now probes are installed on neutral and common contacts.
  • If the device has 0 or 1. the blocker is clearly defective.

In the event that the check did not find a breakdown, but there is clearly a problem, then perhaps the reason is not in the electrics, but in the mechanics.

If the problem is mechanical, then the door of the washing machine can remain locked for many hours after a power outage. When the display shows the error code of problems with the door lock during washing, the problem is obvious. Also, if the washing machine does not want to block the hatch, either the lock itself or the control module has broken. You can find out using a multimeter or replacing the device with a new one.

How to check the lock of a washing machine

UBL washing machine. this is not the most complex device used in it, but because of it, your “home assistant” can get dead. UBL is nothing more than a lock on the hatch of a washing machine, which is designed to block the hatch during the implementation of washing, rinsing and spinning cycles. The lock works in automatic mode and if it breaks, it blocks the hatch or does not want to close it at all. In the article we will tell you how to check the lock of the washing machine in different ways in order to understand whether the UBL or something else is broken.

Checking with a tester

The operation of the lock can be more or less reliably checked with a tester. It is best to use a serviceable, high-range electronic multimeter. Before you check with a multimeter the door locking device of an automatic washing machine, it will have to be removed. We will not talk again about how to remove the sunroof locking device, if you need this information, read the corresponding publication on our website.

After removing the hatch lock, you need to look at its diagram. The fact is that UBL with a bimetallic plate is produced by quite a few companies and each has contacts in its own way, and we need to know in advance which contact is responsible for what, in other words, where is the phase, where is neutral, and where is common. You can find such a scheme on the Internet. Without a circuit, we will not be able to carry out a high-quality check of the hatch lock using a multimeter.

As soon as we find out about the purpose of each of the contacts of a specific lock of the washing machine, we will only have to check.

  • Switch the device toggle switch to resistance test mode.
  • We install one probe on the neutral contact of the lock, and the other on the phase contact.
  • If the device shows a three-digit number, everything is fine.
  • Install probes on two contacts of the lock: neutral and common.
  • If the device shows zero or one, the lock of the washing machine is faulty.

If the electrician of the lock is working properly, but it still does not work, it is not at all necessary that the malfunction lies somewhere else, because you also need to check the mechanics of the device, suddenly a factory defect.

Lock designs

Before deciding how to check the UBL of an automatic washing machine, you need to at least roughly imagine how such a lock works, and what locks are generally used to block the hatch of the “home assistant” during washing. Over the past 30 years, in automatic washing machines produced by different manufacturers, only two types of locks have been used to lock the hatch: with a bimetallic element and electromagnetic.

Electromagnetic locks have proven to be unreliable and ineffective as they can only hold the sunroof securely when electricity is available. Therefore, UBL based on a bimetallic plate is installed on modern washing machines. Why is such UBL more in demand and how it works?

It’s pretty simple. The principle of operation of the UBL washing machine with a bimetallic plate is based on the interaction of three main parts:

  • thermoelement;
  • bimetallic plate;
  • retainer.

When the control module of the washing machine gives the command UBL to lock the hatch, voltage is applied to the thermocouple, which heats up in seconds, heating the bimetallic plate in turn. A thin and long plate expands from heating, becoming even longer, while it begins to press on the latch, which immediately works and closes the lock, reliably blocking the hatch. As long as voltage is applied, the plate will be hot and the hatch door will remain locked.

If the contact of the UBL thermoelement breaks through, then this thermoelement will stop heating, the plate will remain cold and the lock will not work. the hatch will remain open.

If the UBL is working properly, then when the electricity is turned off, the thermoelement will stop heating up, the plate will cool down, decrease in size and pull the lock unlocking the hatch. If the UBL is faulty or the corresponding triac of the control module is faulty, power will be supplied to the lock continuously, and it will remain closed until you de-energize the washing machine. This is how this device works, now let’s talk about checking it.

Diagnostics by external signs

In some cases, it is possible to establish with a low degree of reliability that the UBL of the washing machine is faulty even without disassembling the equipment. You can diagnose a malfunction by the behavior of the washing machine itself, if, of course, you are well versed in its structure and know the principle of operation of all modules. How a washing machine can behave in cases where the UBL is faulty?

  • The mechanics of the UBL are definitely faulty if the washing machine hatch remains locked even a few hours after the “home assistant” is de-energized.
  • If you start a washing program, and an error code appears on the display of the machine, indicating a malfunction of the UBL.
  • You are trying to start a wash, and UBL does not want to lock the hatch. In this case, there are two options: either it is a lock or a control module. Replacing the UBL with a new one or checking the old one with a multimeter, according to the scheme described above, will help to establish the truth exactly.
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There are also ways to check the lock, but they require access to equipment that cannot be obtained at home, which means that it is not worth discussing.

How To Check Tena On A Washing Machine With A Multimeter

Summing up, we note that checking the lock on the washing machine, which is responsible for blocking the hatch, is not as easy as it might seem at first glance, however, with minimal skills in working with a multimeter and the corresponding UBL circuit, it is quite possible to cope with the task. Good luck!

How to check the Tubular Heater of a washing machine

It is not difficult to check the washing machine with a multimeter for a malfunction of the electric heater. Modern models of household appliances will definitely notify of a malfunction with a special sound signal, indicating an error code on the device display.

Decryption of the encoded information is carried out using the instructions for the washing machine, which describes the most common problems with this device.

If the error code indicates that the Tubular Heater of the device is defective, then in order to replace this device, as well as to ensure that there is no error in the device’s self-diagnosis, the heating element must be dismantled. Work should be done in the following sequence:

  • De-energize the electrical device.
  • Remove the rear protective cover of the device.
  • Disconnect the wires to which the Tubular Heater is connected.
  • Unscrew the bolts with which the Tubular Heater is attached to the body of the washing machine and carefully remove the heating element.

The Tubular Heater is checked in the following sequence:

  • Turn on the measuring device, and put it into resistance measurement mode.
  • Connect one multimeter probe to the threaded terminal on one side of the Tubular Heater, and connect the other probe to the second terminal of the heating element.

If the coil inside the shell is intact, the multimeter will display a value from 10 to 100. If the Tubular Heater is faulty, the meter will not show any values. If the meter is equipped with a sounder, a high frequency signal will alert the Tubular Heater. No signal will indicate the need to replace the heating element.

If the coil is in good condition, then it is useful to check for electrical leakage to the Tubular Heater housing. To test the Tubular Heater for breakdown, you need to switch the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode up to 10 kΩ and connect one probe to the body of the heating element, and the other to one of the main terminals.

There should be no reading on the multimeter display. If a pointer device is used, the pointer must remain stationary.

If, when trying to check an element for electric leakage, a “breakdown” was detected on the Tubular Heater case, it is necessary to refuse further use of this element, even if the washing machine is not equipped with a delicate electronic filling, and the outlet has an electrical grounding contact.

If the Tubular Heater needs to be checked on washing machines made in Soviet times, then the whole process is carried out in the same way, and the reason for starting the check is the lack of water heating in the device.

Multimeter Models

It doesn’t matter which multimeter or tester the Tubular Heater is diagnosed with. Both pointer devices and digital models can be used to test the Tubular Heater.

The cost of diagnostic equipment also does not affect the quality of the diagnostics performed. The main condition that must be met in this case is the serviceability of the equipment, with which it is necessary to check the heating element.

Particular attention should be paid to the integrity of the wires that lead from the multimeter probes to the instrument. If checking the Tubular Heater is part of the daily workflow, and not a need for home repairs, then choose the models with which you need to check the Tubular Heater equipped with an alarm.

When using such devices, you can not be distracted from the product repair process, but determine the integrity of the electrical circuit by an audio signal.

How to check the Tubular Heater of a boiler

Despite the fact that many modern models of water heaters have a special anode rod to protect against corrosion, the Tubular Heater in such devices also fails from time to time.

To make sure that the water heater has ceased to perform its function precisely for this reason, it is necessary to dismantle the Tubular Heater and make sure that this “disease” is present.

The work on removing the heating element is carried out in the following sequence:

  • The boiler is disconnected from the mains.
  • Water is drained from the water heater.
  • The bottom cover of the device is removed.
  • Contact wires are removed.
  • The bolts holding the Tubular Heater to the boiler body are unscrewed.
  • The heating element is removed from the housing.

You can check the Tubular Heater of a water heater in the same way as an element of a washing machine. If the Tubular Heater is too heavily contaminated with limescale, or the contacts of the threaded terminals were not tightened well enough and burns have formed in these places, you must carefully clean the metal surface in those places where the multimeter probes will be connected.

How to check correctly

Various heating elements have an efficiency equal to 100%, since all the electrical current used is converted into heat energy.

Despite the fact that these elements are made of heat-resistant materials, the service life of the Tubular Heater is still very short, so if an electric oven, oven or washing machine fails, it is necessary, first of all, to check these products for the health of the heating element. You can make diagnostics at home using a multimeter.

You can check the Tubular Heater with a multimeter without any difficulty, but you should be aware of some of the features of such a diagnosis:

  • It should be checked only with a multimeter, the performance of which is beyond doubt.
  • The contact points of the multimeter probes and metal must be free of limescale, rust and other contaminants.
  • The heating element can only be checked correctly by completely disconnecting it from the connected wires.

These conditions, for the implementation of diagnostic work, are mandatory, otherwise you can get false positive results, or mistakenly consider the Tubular Heater to be faulty.

How to check the Air Tubular Heater

Tubular Heater of any design can be checked with a multimeter, including air, which is a less durable element than those products that are used to heat water.

Defective air heating elements can be checked not only with a multimeter, but also by visual inspection.

Very often, in places where the internal spiral of such elements breaks, deformation of the body also occurs, especially the areas of the Tubular Heater body in bending places are particularly susceptible to such changes.

Even if, when checking with a multimeter, it is formally possible to determine the health of the heating device, but there are deep damages on the case with a protective sealing layer exposed, further use of such a Tubular Heater should be abandoned, due to an unfavorable forecast for the further operation of the heating device.

How to test the Tubular Heater with a multimeter

All electrical devices sooner or later deplete their resources, and the use of the device becomes impossible or dangerous to life and health. The transition from lamp products to transistor ones contributed to an increase in the service life of many electronic devices, by reducing the heating of the most critical elements, but in many electrical devices this effect is not undesirable.

How to ring the Tubular Heater with a multimeter and at the same time do it correctly is described in detail in this article. The main condition that every home electrician must adhere to is the complete absence of electric current in electrical appliances and devices during repair and diagnostic activities.

How to change the heating device?

We tracked down the Tubular Heater and made sure it should be replaced. First, disconnect all wires. In order not to confuse anything in the future, it is recommended to first fix the order of their connection with the camera.

To remove the Tubular Heater, you must unscrew the nut located in the middle of the device. Now you need to pry off the heater with a screwdriver and carefully remove it, swinging it in different directions. It is now recommended to immediately descale other elements around the water heater. The new Tubular Heater fits neatly onto the special mounts. If you make a mistake, then during operation it will touch the tank. It remains only to connect the wires and assemble the machine to run it for testing.

We call the device

Before checking if the Tubular Heater is working properly, the washing machine must be disconnected from the mains. After that, the wiring is disconnected, the tester’s switch is set to 200 Ohm, its probes are applied to the terminals of the water heater.

As a result of your actions, you get:

  • an operable element will display a value close to the calculated indicator on the device screen;
  • if the tester displays “one”, then there is a break inside and the heater will have to be replaced;
  • when the value is “zero” or close to it, a short circuit has occurred. Tubular Heater is not suitable for further work.

Signs and causes of breakdown

As a rule, the machine continues to wash even with cold water. To make sure that the heating device is malfunctioning, you need to understand the signs that indicate a breakdown of the element. There are not so many of them:

  • after the washing process, the laundry does not smell very pleasant;
  • while the machine is running, the glass on the loading door does not heat up;
  • things are not washed.

The reasons for this trouble include the following:

  • Breakage or short circuit of an element. In such cases, the machine either does not work at all, or works for a short time, because the other elements of the unit can easily get damaged and even burn out.
  • Failure of the heating device circuit. In such situations, the Tubular Heater does not give away a loss of performance, and it will be difficult to identify a breakdown. But if the unit washes for a long time or periodically freezes, then the problem must be looked for precisely in the cliff.
  • Tubular Heater relay failure. The device has a sensor that is responsible for the level of water collection. With a working device, the water reaches the desired level, then the electronics receive a command to turn on the heater. It happens that the elements that control the amount of water become contaminated during the period of operation. Therefore, clean the pressure switch and check the Tubular Heater sensor.
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Often, users do not look at the fact that the washing machine does not finish the washing process in time, does not execute part of the program, and attribute such troubles to electronics. And these are the first signals for help.

How to test the Tubular Heater of a washing machine with a tester

The device for heating water in the Washing machine is one of the main elements. During working cycles, the Tubular Heater first heats up and then cools down. From this comes the gradual wear of the spiral, which begins to lose its qualities. After a while, the heating device stops functioning. Let’s figure out how to check the Tubular Heater of a washing machine.

Expert advice

In order for the heating device to work as long as possible, you should arrange for proper care of the washing machine.

When carrying out repair work, be sure to disconnect the washing machine from the electrical network.

Many people recommend that you first remove the heater from the machine in order to then check its performance with devices. But this, perhaps, is not necessary. the check can be easily carried out on site. This will save time and avoid unnecessary work.

How to check the Tubular Heater of a washing machine

There are several ways:

  • quick and easy way to check the body part;
  • determination of performance without a device.

When you don’t have a tester at hand, try performing a test without opening the case. After observing the behavior of the washing machine, you can easily establish that it was the heating device that failed:

  • The water does not heat up, but the wash is in progress. On typewriters with screens, signals indicating this error will flash. If there is no display, pay attention to the flashing lights.
  • The work process does not stop, the water heats up, but this takes much longer.
  • The machine is working, the water is warming up, but from touching the body part, electric shocks are felt, the automatic protection periodically works.

When at least one indicated malfunction is detected, then there can be no doubt that the heating element is not working well. If you cannot check your unit with a tester, we recommend that you contact a specialist for help. He will confidently determine if there is a need to replace the element.

There are several more ways in which you can organize element verification without the appropriate tools:

  • as soon as dark spots appear on the body of the heater, a breakdown can be confidently diagnosed. Sometimes such points are hidden by scale, it must be cleaned in order to finally be convinced of your thoughts. “Citric acid” will help to cope with scale;
  • don’t you want to disassemble your typewriter? In this case, just observe the operation of the electric meter. Run the car to maximum. When the counter turns faster, it means the Tubular Heater is still running;
  • Check for bumps, scratches, or other damage. Their presence will confidently confirm that the heating device needs to be replaced;
  • connoisseurs of electricity can search for a break using a self-made indicator light.

Checking for breakdown

Even if the coil of the heating element is in perfect order, this does not mean that everything is normal. Perhaps the dielectric inside has gone to the body of the washer, and this is already fraught with danger for your body.

To organize a breakdown test of the Tubular Heater, set the tester to the “buzzer” mode. After connecting the wires on the device, the lamp should light up and a squeak should be heard.

Now we take the Tubular Heater terminal with the tester, apply the second probe to the case. If there is no squeak, then everything is in order. Otherwise, the heating device will have to be definitely replaced.

How the Tubular Heater Resistance Index is determined

To check an element, it is not enough to know how and with what devices it is performed. It is necessary to have information about the meaning of his resistance. To begin with, it is recommended to calculate this value. To do this, you need the following information:

  • Voltage supplied to the water heating element. As a rule, this indicator (U) is equal to 220 V. This voltage is present in the household electrical network of our apartments.
  • The power indicator of the heater is P. It is easily determined, you just need to look at the operating instructions. The second option. the power of the Tubular Heater can be checked on the Internet according to the model of the machine.

Having all the necessary information, we determine the resistance R, using the special formula R = U² / P. The resulting resistance value is formed in the heater during operation. If the Tubular Heater is working properly, then the figure obtained by the formula will appear on the multimeter screen.

Where is the water heating element

If we consider various brands of machines (Indesit, Bosch, LG), then the Tubular Heater in each type of model can be located in different places, and it is most convenient to approach it either through the back panel or through the front.

But if you are not aware of this, then you can still find it yourself:

  • the rear panel of the machine is examined. If the lid is large, then the heating device is located behind it;
  • the machine must be put on its side, inspect the bottom. Perhaps this is how you find the heater;
  • the back panel is easiest to remove. If the Tubular Heater is not there, then it will be easy to install it in its place.

There is another option. with the help of a flashlight, the drum of the machine is visible from the inside. With good vision, the exact location of the heater can be determined.

Once you find the Tubular Heater, you need to make sure it works. Note that there is no need to dismantle the element for such a procedure.

Signs and causes of breakdown

As a rule, the machine continues to wash even with cold water. To make sure that the heating device is malfunctioning, you need to understand the signs that indicate a breakdown of the element. There are not so many of them:

  • after the washing process, the laundry does not smell very pleasant,
  • during the operation of the machine, the glass on the loading door does not heat up,
  • things are not washed.

The reasons for this trouble include the following:

  • Breakage or short circuit of an element. In such cases, the machine either does not work at all, or works for a short time, because the other elements of the unit can easily get damaged and even burn out.
  • Failure of the heating device circuit. In such situations, the Tubular Heater does not give away a loss of performance, and it will be difficult to identify a breakdown. But if the unit washes for a long time or periodically freezes, then the problem must be looked for precisely in the cliff.
  • Tubular Heater relay failure. The device has a sensor that is responsible for the level of water collection. With a working device, the water reaches the desired level, then the electronics receive a command to turn on the heater. It happens that the elements that control the amount of water become contaminated during the period of operation. Therefore, clean the pressure switch and check the Tubular Heater sensor.

Often, users do not look at the fact that the washing machine does not finish the washing process in time, does not execute part of the program, and attribute such troubles to electronics. And these are the first signals for help.

How to check the Tubular Heater of a washing machine

There are several ways:

  • quick and easy way to check the body,
  • determination of performance without a device.

When you don’t have a tester at hand, try performing a test without opening the case. Having observed the behavior of the washing machine, you can easily establish that it was the heating device that was out of order:

  • The water does not heat up, but the wash is in progress. On typewriters with screens, signals indicating this error will flash. If there is no display, pay attention to the flashing lights.
  • The work process does not stop, the water heats up, but this takes much longer.
  • The machine works, the water warms up, but from touching the body part, electric shocks are felt, the automatic protection periodically works.

When at least one indicated malfunction is detected, then there can be no doubt that the heating element is not working well. If you cannot check your unit with a tester, we recommend that you contact a specialist for help. He will confidently determine if there is a need to replace the element.

There are several more ways in which you can organize element verification without the appropriate tools:

  • as soon as dark spots appear on the body of the heater, a breakdown can be confidently diagnosed. Sometimes such points are hidden by scale, it must be cleaned in order to finally be convinced of your thoughts. “Citric acid” will help to cope with scale.,
  • don’t you want to disassemble your machine? In this case, just observe the operation of the electric meter. Run the clipper to maximum. When the counter turns faster, it means the Tubular Heater is still running.,
  • Check for bumps, scratches, or other damage. Their presence will confidently confirm that the heating device needs to be replaced.,
  • electrical connoisseurs can search for a break using a self-made indicator light.
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Checking for breakdown

Even if the coil of the heating element is in perfect order, this does not mean that everything is normal. Perhaps the dielectric inside has gone to the body of the washer, and this is already fraught with danger for your body.

To organize a breakdown test of the Tubular Heater, set the tester to the “buzzer” mode. After connecting the wires on the device, the lamp should light up and a squeak should be heard.

Now we take the Tubular Heater terminal with the tester, apply the second probe to the case. If there is no squeak, then everything is in order. Otherwise, the heating device will have to be definitely replaced.

How the Tubular Heater Resistance Index is determined

To check an element, it is not enough to know how and with what devices it is performed. It is necessary to have information about the meaning of his resistance. To begin with, it is recommended to calculate this value. To do this, you need the following information:

  • Voltage supplied to the water heating element. As a rule, this indicator (U) is equal to 220 V. This voltage is present in the household electrical network of our apartments.
  • Heater power indicator. P. It is easily determined, you just need to look at the operating instructions. The second option. the power of the Tubular Heater can be checked on the Internet according to the model of the machine.

Having all the necessary information, we determine the resistance R, using the special formula R = U² / P. The resulting resistance value is formed in the heater during operation. If the Tubular Heater is working properly, then the figure obtained by the formula will appear on the multimeter screen.

How to test the Tubular Heater of a washing machine with a tester

The device for heating water in the Washing machine is one of the main elements. During working cycles, the Tubular Heater first heats up and then cools down. From this comes the gradual wear of the spiral, which begins to lose its qualities. After a while, the heating device stops functioning. Let’s figure out how to check the Tubular Heater of a washing machine.

We call the device

Before checking if the Tubular Heater is working properly, the washing machine must be disconnected from the mains. After that, the wiring is disconnected, the tester’s switch is set to 200 Ohm, its probes are applied to the terminals of the water heater.

As a result of your actions, you get:

  • an operable element will display a value close to the calculated indicator on the device screen,
  • if the tester displays “one”, then there is a break inside, and the heater will have to be changed,
  • when the value is “zero” or close to it, a short circuit has occurred. Tubular Heater is not suitable for further work.

How to change the heating device?

We tracked down the Tubular Heater and made sure it should be replaced. First, disconnect all wires. In order not to confuse anything in the future, it is recommended to first fix the order of their connection with the camera.

To remove the Tubular Heater, you must unscrew the nut located in the middle of the device. Now you need to pry off the heater with a screwdriver and carefully remove it, swinging it in different directions. It is now recommended to immediately descale other elements around the water heater. The new Tubular Heater fits neatly onto the special mounts. If you make a mistake, then during operation it will touch the tank. It remains only to connect the wires and assemble the machine to run it for testing.

Expert advice

In order for the heating device to work as long as possible, you should arrange for proper care of the washing machine.

When carrying out repair work, be sure to disconnect the washing machine from the electrical network.

Many people recommend that you first remove the heater from the machine in order to then check its performance with devices. But this, perhaps, is not necessary. the check can be easily carried out on site. This will save time and avoid unnecessary work.

Where is the water heating element

If we consider various brands of machines (Indesit, Bosch, LG), then the Tubular Heater in each type of model can be located in different places, and it is most convenient to approach it either through the back panel or through the front.

But if you are not aware of this, then you can still find it yourself:

  • the rear panel of the machine is examined. If the lid is large, then the heating device is located behind it.,
  • the machine must be put on its side, inspect the bottom. Perhaps this is how you find the heater,
  • the back panel is easiest to remove. If the Tubular Heater is not there, then it will be easy to install it in its place.

There is another option. with the help of a flashlight, the drum of the machine is visible from the inside. With good vision, the exact location of the heater can be determined.

Once you find the Tubular Heater, you need to make sure it works. Note that there is no need to dismantle the element for such a procedure.

How to ring (check) the Tubular Heater of a washing machine?

When the washing machine suddenly stops heating the water, this becomes a real problem, since it significantly affects the quality of the wash. It is impossible to wash stubborn stains in cold water, besides, the washing powder does not dissolve well, and the laundry after such washing sometimes acquires an unpleasant, musty smell.

There may be several reasons why heating does not occur. Most often, the matter is in the breakdown of the software module or Tubular Heater. a tubular heating element. As practice shows, the most common reason is the latter. Tubular Heater often deteriorates due to plaque that occurs under the influence of hard water or poor-quality household chemicals.

We will describe in detail how to independently diagnose Tubular Heater and preventive measures in today’s article.

Checking with a multimeter

The calculated resistance is a measure at which the Tubular Heater can function normally. In the event of a heating element malfunction, the resistance may change, resulting in interruptions in water heating. You can check the resistance using a multimeter. a device that allows you to measure various indicators of electric current.

Make sure the washing machine is disconnected from the mains before starting measurements.

Then set up the multimeter: run resistance measurement mode, and set the value to 200 ohms. Apply the test leads to the heating element terminals. The measurement result should appear on the device screen.

If the resulting number came out equal or close to the one we found using the formula, then everything is in order with the Tubular Heater. The number “1” means that there has been a breakage inside the Tubular Heater. The digit “0” is displayed in case of a short circuit. And in fact, and in another case, the heating element will have to be replaced.

Don’t forget to check the integrity of the Tubular Heater itself. How to do this, see the following.

Is it possible to check serviceability without a special tester?

If you don’t have a multimeter at hand, you can test the heating element of the washing machine in other ways. The first one does not require disassembly of the unit. To ensure that the Tubular Heater is functioning properly, run a wash at the highest temperature possible. Then carefully watch the rotation of the electric meter wheel. if it starts picking up speed, then the heater is most likely working properly.

The second way to diagnose Tubular Heater is by visual inspection. If cracks or black spots appear on the body of the device. the Tubular Heater must be replaced.

Measuring resistance

The most affordable way to diagnose Tubular Heater problems is to measure its resistance. In order to determine it, we need to find the value of all elements of the formula:

R = U / P, where R is resistance, U is voltage, and P is power.

The voltage supplied to the heater is equal to the mains voltage: it is usually 220 volts. You can find out the power of the Tubular Heater in the corresponding section of the instruction manual for the washing machine. If this information could not be found there, there is data on the Internet regarding all existing models. Most often it is 2000 W.

Now we substitute the found values, calculate, and get the desired value. According to our values, R = 220/2000 = 24.2 Ohm.

Finding the Tubular Heater

In order to check the health of the Tubular Heater, you must first gain access to it. and for this you need to disassemble the washing machine. Most modern models have a Tubular Heater in either the front or back of the case. It is quite easy to find it in three ways:

  • compare the front and back wall of the unit. which one is larger, the Tubular Heater is usually hidden under that;
  • turn the washer on its side and find the Tubular Heater by removing its lower part;
  • unscrew the top cover and, tilting the machine to the side, find the Tubular Heater.

Having found the Tubular Heater, you can immediately dismantle it, but experts advise you not to rush into this until you are convinced of its malfunction. Therefore, to start, simply disconnect the wires going to the Tubular Heater.

How to assess performance? Tips

  • When installing a new Tubular Heater or replacing an old one, carefully check the connections. they must be completely sealed, otherwise the life of the heater (and, possibly, the entire washing machine) will be very short.
  • You can extend the life of the Tubular Heater by providing it with periodic maintenance. The most readily available remedy is citric acid. Just start the wash with an empty tank, adding a couple tablespoons of citric acid instead of powder. But do this no more than once a year, otherwise you can damage the metal parts of the washing machine.

You can learn about other preventive measures by watching the Ukrainian program “All will be good”.